A golden hue with soft, glowing highlights. Fine, steady, gentle bubbles. Powerful and complex on the palate, revealing a mixture of yellow fruit (mirabelle plum), juicy, ripe fruits (nectarine), citrus peel (candied orange) and finely-roasted nuts (hazelnut). The nose is simultaneously powdery and sweet, with elegant, chalky notes. Gentle, tactile and full-bodied on the palate. The bubbles create a gentle, vibrating sensation, then the wine becomes soft, dense and juicy. But it is the chalky freshness that quickly sets the tone: the sweetness becomes energetic and intense, giving the wine an elegant yet powerful texture. Fine, textured tannins reveal a poised and vinous dimension to the wine. The finish is savory and saline. Blend: 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay

98 Australian Wine Companion

Sheer, frightening intensity; pure unsweetened citrus. It’s a wine notorious for improving on cork in the years following release, but this will take longer than most. 100% estate-grown, 60/40% chardonnay and pinot noir, one-third each Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne and Côtes des Blancs; 6 years on lees, disgorged September ’20.

97 James Suckling

A real beauty with a wide spectrum of candied citrus aromas plus notes of dried strawberries and brioche. Stunning concentration and great racy freshness on the compact and tightly wound palate with firm structure. Very long, steely and salty finish. Time in the bottle has just begun to polish this and it should be even more impressive after a couple of years. Tasted at the Cristal vertical tasting at the champagne house on July 6th, 2023.